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Location, Location, Location
Pueblo Magico Alamos... The two story Casa Grande of La Casa Loma de Guadalupe is clearly visiable in the upper left. The historic church in the center and the green Plaza de Armas just to the right of the church.
Getting Here
Alamos is about 400 miles south of the Nogales border. Mexican highway 15 is a big 4 lane newly improved toll road with bypasses to avoid city traffic through Hermoillo and Ciudad Obregon. Driving time is about 8+ hours for first time drivers. There are gas stations and services all along the way. If your car uses regular and you want it filled, tell the attendant 'lleno, magna' (full, regular). If you want the windshield washed, oil checked, etc, , expect to pay about a 10 peso tip, assuming it's a good job. Always have some change on hand for such things.
Follow these instruction and you'll have an easier time!
If you want to buy Mexican car insurance and change a little USD to pesos before the border, take the Mariposa exit from I-19 at Nogales, go left under the highway bridge and find a casa de cambio (exchange house that also sells car insurance) in the Safeway shopping center on the right. It's in the far west corner of the lot. Leave and go up Mariposa west-southwest to reach the border entry gate (back under the highway bridge and keep going up the hill). If you don't do it there, you can get the same things at the KM21 station where you get your tourist visa.
Cross south at the Mariposa gate. It opens at 6:00 am. Drive uphill to the first toll booth. You'll need pesos for the toll, (about 70 pesos). Continue past the toll booth in the left lane and enter the customs entry facility. You approach and wait. When you get a light, go through. If you get a red light, stop ahead and tell the agent where you are going and if you have anything to declare. Green light, just drive through. Now you are in Mexico!
Drive south about 12 miles or so on Mexico I-15 until you see a right lane off ramp/overpass. Just past that on the right there are immigration and other official buildings. This facility is called KM 21. There's a big lot. Just pull in, go into the office and give them your passport. They will sell you a 6 month visitors visa for about $25. You can get change at the casa de cambio right outside the office door. You are in Mexico so you pay in Pesos from now on. You can buy Mexican car insurance there too, they tell me. You can use your US credit card there too.
Major note: TOPES!!! Topes are speed bumps. You have to be aware of them. They will be at official places, at the entry and exit of crosswalks and small towns, and in places you probably don't think they should be. If you cross one at more than fast walking speed, you'll get a big surprise and possible suspension damage. Try not to forget this tip!
Now drive south about 3.5 hours toward Hermosillo. Prior to Hermosillo there are a couple bathroom stops at the toll booths. Lock your car when you leave it, even for a minute or two. You are in a generally safe area but kids might be kids.
In Mexico you are supposed to drive in the right lane except to pass. Many people do not know this. Many more don't do it. If you get stopped by police, always be sorry you might have caused trouble. Be prepared to hand the officer a 500 peso note on the down low and ask him to please take it to the judge to save you the embarrassment. Sometimes 200 is enough just depending on how guilty you actually are.
Before Hermosillo there is a new ramp for the bypass. It saves about 20 minutes' driving time and a lot of explaining about the best way to get through Hermosillo. It's worth the toll. On the other hand, Hermosillo is a good place to stop for a night, for gas, lunch, or whatever you need. A map and a sudden awareness of signs in Spanish will get you through.
Mexico now has international branded stations like Chevron and Shell, etc. They are generally cleaner, sell better gas, service your car voluntarily, are a lot less likely to have jimmied the pumps to cheat you on the amount of gas you get. Many of them accept US credit cards. All stations with an attached Oxxo store accept US credit cards.
Continue south toward Guaymas. Before entering Guaymas, there is an off ramp for Empalme, Obregon, Navojoa, and other points south on I-15. Take that by staying to the right and going over the sweeping overpass south. A few miles south of that is the place where you buy a car permit. In Sonora you can drive without any permit as far south as Empalme (just south east of Guaymas). Otherwise you need a permit. Look for some modular looking trailer-like buildngs on the right. There is a tall red and white communications tower nearby to help you locate it. Pull in, and park. If there is a man in the lot taking VIN numbers, let him do that. Otherwise he will come out later. It is seldom busy at this place. Inside, you go to the far counter, give them your registration, fill out a form, and pay $60 USD at another window. You could also buy an all-Mexico permit if you want to put a $200-$400 USD deposit down with credit card. If you are just staying in Sonora State, no need. If the car is not in your name, you need a notarized letter from the owner or lender giving permission. When paid, go back to the original counter and pick up your windshield sticker. Put it on right there in the parking lot. KEEP the accompanying paperwork! You must have it to return the permit sticker.
TIP: have some Vaseline with you. Coat the spot on the windshield where you will stick the sticker on. Use plenty. Mexico is hard on windshields. If you have to replace one, getting the old sticker off in one hunk is impossible unless.....you used the old Vaseline trick. If you replace a windshield and cannot get the sticker off and back onto the new one, you'll have a genuinely terrible time with the bureaucracy thereon....for years....and many fines. Some people say candle wax works too. But anyway try to do something to help yourself in the not unlikely event you break a windshield.
MAJOR NOTE: This permit sticker MUST be returned with it's original paperwork at the KM 21 booth on the right (going north), or you will never get another permit as long as you live......or else hire a lawyer and pay a lot of fees. If you are going to re-enter Mexico you could leave the sticker on, but keep in mind there is no other place to return it, just that little booth. So if you don't come back to visit Mexico, you'll have to return at least to KM 21 with the car and permit attached and intact, and paperwork in hand, or else. And it better be PRIOR to the 6 month expiration or you'll pay late fees too. They are quite strict about this little formality. It's to keep people from illegally importing cars into Sonora, which in Baja in not only allowed but encouraged. Well that's government.
After the Empalme permit station, there are no more formalities. Just drive toward Ciudad Obregon and look for the bypass ramp on the right. It has been under construction so don't expect it to be real organized. Just follow the signs and arrows and other cars. If you reach the Caffenio place, you went too far on Rt. 15.
On the way to Navojoa there is a little town named Vicam. It has 9 speed bumps. They are all surprises. Try not to be surprised. At every bump is someone trying to sell you something. That's a good way to tell where they are. At one point entering town, there is a group of people wanting you to stop and pay them a "voluntary" toll. I usually throw 10 pesos into the coffee can and continue on. Likewise, many of the official toll booths have been occupied by the local Indian people who ask for a 'donation'. 10 pesos will do. It's lot cheaper than the usual toll.
Navojoa is the commercial city where the turn to Alamos is. Just go up the main street, look for the Mc Donalds on the left, and past that, see the sign for Alamos. When the signal is green, you can make a left turn. Oncoming traffic waits as their direction is red. The road is rough at the Mayo River bridge crossing, but always at least passable. Once through town the two lane road up to Alamos is good except for the usual potholes. It's about 30 miles. There will be speed bumps in Navojoa by Sonora University, and near Alamos there are sets of bumps in Mina Nuevas and La Aduana. Coming into Alamos, you will notice a yellow Elektra store. Continue past that two blocks and at the second street turn right (Calle Galeana). If you pass the Banorte on the right you went too far. Galeana is the street just before the bank. Follow that uphill and at Teresita's Red Door where the street divides, bear left. The next left is your street. Follow the cobblestone street up the hill. Before the top is Calle Carcel. If you are going to the casita, go left there. If you are staying at the Casa Grande, continue over the top of the hill, down a bit and then look for the big iron double gate on the left. The sign says "Loma de Guadalupe, Casa Grande". If we know your arrival time, we will definitely have someone meet you to open the room. Probably someone will be there. If not give manager Irma Barreras a call. She lives right around the corner from the casita.
Bienvenidos!
Nearby is a Mexican restaurant, Dona Lola's. It is downhill toward the Church plaza.
Teresitas Restaurant is down the hill the other way (the way you just came in). Loved by Mexican clientele and foreigners alike, they agree it's a wonderful little place to eat. Bakery too. Deserts are fabulous.
In town at the Church Square there is Mc Gahey's new Alamos Resort, including a hotel and nice restaurant.
There are uncounted taco trailers, all of them good.
Nearby is Tesoros with a good bar and restaurant. Chef Joseph continures the tradition of great Santa Fe style cooking at Charisma/La Mansion. All within 1800 steps of your door, 10 minutes max if you walk slowly.
And much, much more.
Enjoy your stay!
Don't forget the speed bumps!
Don't forget the speed bumps!
Don't forget to turn in your car permit on the way north at KM 21!
Hurry back, stay longer next time!
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